The hike started at Petite's Gap on the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is about 5 miles south of the BRP's crossing of the James River. I parked just off the BRP on a road that splits the James River Face Wilderness from the Thunder Ridge Wilderness, at about 2400 feet elevation. Heading south on the A.T., I was immediately in the Thunder Ridge boundary, and climbed to almost 3700 feet elevation in just over 2 trail miles.
Climbing
the A.T. southbound from Petites Gap, I passed a small spring and a relatively
flat, swampy looking area. My A.T. Trail
guide from 1994 states that this is the site of a cabin inhabited by a man that
legend stated was a murderer who fled "from justice" after the Civil
War. There is no evidence of a cabin
there now, though the guide states that the cabin existed when the A.T. Was
first routed through the area.
The trail
climbs over about the next 3 miles until it reaches the Thunder Hill Overlook
of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Here there is
a split in the trail. Going left takes
you through the BRP parking lot (with trash cans), and right goes by a nice
stone overlook that looks out over the valley to the west. Both times I passed this overlook there were
people there, so I cannot vouch for the view, but the stonework looked very
nice. (On the second pass, I encountered
a through hiker taking a cigarette break - not something I often see!)
From this
point, the trail drops again before crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway, at BRP
mile 74.9. I have driven this part of
the Parkway before, but never noticed the A.T. crossing; it is not very
obvious. A few feet after the crossing,
the Hunting Creek Trail splits off and heads east down the mountain. There is a steep climb, then the trail levels
off before coming to the Thunder Hill Shelter after another mile. The Thunder Hill Shelter was built about 50
years ago, just like the next 5 shelters to the north and the Cornelius Creek
Shelter to the south.
The
shelter's privy, however, is another story.
It appears to be only a few months old, though I didn't walk over to
check it too closely.
At this
point, I was five miles into my hike, crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway a second
time, and wondering if I would experience the two highlights of this part of
the trail. I needn't have worried, as
after a slight downhill drop and another half mile of trail, I came across the
famous Guillotine. The Guillotine is a
large rock boulder suspended of the trail in a narrow rock canyon. It requires a slight swallow and no small
amount of courage to pass through. And
in my case, it also required a little bit of muscle to bring a tricking dog
through with me.
It is a
justly famous spot though, as it is so impressive! I imagine the original A.T. was laid out
specifically to pass through this spot, as there is a downhill southbound to
get here, then a steep uphill to get up to Apple Orchard Mountain. The folks maintaining the trail here have
done a fantastic job laying rock to form steps up the mountain, this section exhibits true craftsmanship that
must be seen and appreciated.
Under the Guillotine! |
Continuing
on southbound on the A.T., I ascended to the top of Apple Orchard Mountain,
next to an FAA relay station. Apple
Orchard Mountain is the highest point on the A.T. for 1200 miles of trail. Heading north, a thru-hiker will not again
ascend this high until the edge of the White Mountains in New Hampshire. Nothing in Shenandoah National Park is this
high. Nothing in the next 8 states to
the north reaches this height.
Appropriately,
I met Dreamcatcher and Spartan here, a couple of Sobos (southbound thru-hikers)
heading for Georgia. Spartan told me
that they were from Colorado and were excited to experience the Bryant Ridge
Shelter that night. Spartan took a photo
of the dog and me at the top of the mountain, and when I offered to
reciprocate, he pulled out a large digital SLR from his backpack and told me
that good photos were a very important part of his trip. They would have to be, to carry that much
extra weight!
Dreamcatcher and Spartan heading south to Georgia. |
I left
them at the top of the mountain, but knew I would run into them again because I
was turning back at Parker's Gap Road, a little over a mile further south. I descended the mountain, touched the road
(which I had hiked to on the A.T. from the south a few months ago), them turned
around heading north. It isn't the most
efficient way to hike the Appalachian Trail, but it got me back home in time
for my son's baseball game at 6 that night.
Heading
back north, I was surprised not to encounter Spartan and Dreamcatcher fairly
quickly. But they were quite a ways
behind me and I found them near the top of the mountain where we had first
met. They explained that they had
experienced "trail magic," where a non-hiker offers assistance or
food to a thru-hiker. An FAA employee
had given each of them bottles of Vitamin Water.
The view looking to the west from Apple Orchard Mountain. |
I stopped
at the top of Apple Orchard Mountain for lunch and was approached by the same
man, who insisted on giving me a bottle of Vitamin Water and a bottle of
regular water for the dog, even though I told him I was only out for a day
hike. I think he really enjoyed offering
treats.
As stated earlier, over the
entire 14 mile trek I encountered 20 other hikers, which is amazing on a Tuesday. I almost never see folks
out hiking during the week, but this was near the peak of the Autumn leaves and
the views were spectacular. It was great
to see so many folks out getting exercise and enjoying the trail. I don't think any of them would disagree that this was a great way to spend a beautiful day.
The Appalachian Trail crossing Apple Orchard Mountain. |
Trip Data:
PATC Difficulty Factor | 340.0 | ||
Total Altitude Gain | 4104 | feet | |
Total Distance | 14.08 | miles | |
Low Point | 2388 | feet | |
High Point | 4228 | feet | |
Time of Hike | 5:58 | hours |
Might be hiking the stretch from the Apple Orchard Falls parking lot (BRP) to the Thunder Ridge Overlook (and return) this weekend. Great review, Jeff!!
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